Short story about Tre Cime and Anti Cime
In 2011 (when the dollar cost 8 UAH), returning to France we came here, looking and planning. That expedition was so expective! A stunningly beautiful place, tall walls, permission from local authorities to jumping, fun international company, steep base jumpers’ team, videorecording crew, quadrocopters, powered paragliders, ideas of new tricks and other – shaken, not stirred.
We’ve arrived, swept by drive and desire to work. One day for the first ascent and exploration, three days - for bases anchor setup 1200 m length and exit equipment. Weather is wow! It seems that jumping is about to begin.
Further in some the feeling will be as the plot is pinched a little bit from Mont Rebey project. The same as in Spain, in Italy we’ve got troubles with a lead, a new, light one is going to be brought only in 5 days, "because-of-misunderstanding", but we’re got insured - a duplicate one.
After spending two nights on top, we went down to outsit the storm front, to take Lyocha to the way to Ukraine (there’s an individual visa story full of pain and suffering) and to have a rest one day before we finish anchoring and the most interesting begins. So Lyocha left, Baraka Flims is on the way, fresh fellows from the French Pyrenaline are arriving. You can rest a day and prepare for the final stage, but then it began ...
First an alarming letter came from rescuers, who we coordinated our stay with, apparently they imagined our ropes in a different way. As for me, even in the first day the abundance of flying around Cime seemed pretty tense. Light aircrafts were flittering around without problems at low altitude between the peaks, rescuers regularly were picking up people right off the wall by helicopter.
Rescuers categorically demanded to remove the base ropes because they interfered the approach under the wall, and besides they did not speak English, only Italian. Our shelter hostess Paola volunteered to be our interpreter and in the evening we make the decision which did not interfere their work. Hooray, we continue!
We decided not to bother with the duplicate lead and to wait a day before the new arrival. The shooting process is more stays than goes on. We went up to the mountain to prepare everything for a lead arrival. The heat, snow, flying clouds, fog, night on the top of the Cime Grande badsome sublimates for breakfast, lunch and dinner - a battle between the bread, sardines and condensed milk have won with a slight advantage. We dragged all gear up and there some German-speaking rescuers showed up.
We were not managed to wangle anything except of “nein” and “forbidden” from them. Filmmakers, for lack of a better, started to shoot the fight against bureaucracy. In the course of attempts to influence a positive decision of common Tyrolean problem we met with a bunch of local authorities who allowed or did not allow. We’ve learned the full depth of the depth of interest which this vertex unites. Here we have the analogy with an iceberg, which faced our "Titanic" of the Ukrainian-French assembly. And we’ve been drowned by the representatives of the National Park, who opposed in earnest. The park is kind of under different area jurisdiction, but it is a part of the array, where we worked. We have not been able to reach out to their cold hearts.
Meanwhile kilometers of ropes were hanging almost in full readiness to test throws and whispered “Jump, jump, come on, get up”. The weather was at one with them at the same time - not a cloud in the daytime heat, no wind - a rare idyll. As a result, we finally have been refused flatly – so we had to think about Plan B and agreed on the Cime Piccoli: beautiful, but not as high as the Grande. The exit is about 230 m high, it is necessary to go to Anticime, to rappel vertically about 70 meters on a small ledge. Not easy, but at least something. We rose, prepared everything to lift goods, looked at the further location of the bases across the approach to the helipad, realized everything and the project had been killed until next time. We got down and went to Switzerland to celebrate this sad event to Rope-jumping areas - 190-meter bungee jumping and Rope in a picturesque valley.
The ones who jumped enough that time, were base jumpers (not not advertising))). Mathias jumped of Cime Grande three times in wingsuit. Between slow moments they even have been managed to get Monte Brent, to eat pasta and jump. We need to find and post Mathias’ and Gauthier’s awesome paired tacking in Swiss.
And there was a lot of climbing in alpine style. This is a separate issue. Honestly, traditional Alpine climbing in its homeland disappointed very much. Routes are full of people, that I have not seen even in Crimean Foros on May holidays. Everyone climbs – ones who can and who can not. If you go down the stone, then the probability of strikes is higher than at the bowling championship in the world finals. If you climb up, then you need to watch carefully so as not to abut constantly in someone's ass. Well-brought people can not go back, because they will always stand in the queue and hide from the rockfall. I suspect they are those people who are saved by the rescuers, hungry and frozen. I was suggested later by knowledgeable people that this had been only the local specifics mostly because of the huge crowds of different people, and in other places of the Alps everything is befittingly and determined by instructions.
Chic area for all kinds of climbing, especially if you get round popular routes. Awesome views, easy trails and roads for trekking, a lot of the via ferrata. Come to the Dolomites, all but the Rope there))).
Thank Paola and the Italian Alpine Club for participation in organizational and everyday problems. From our great thanks the greatest one we would like to convey to Paola. She participated in our expedition as much as any of us did. Rifugio Auronzo, being a nice place for resting between ascents and trekking, became sweet home for us in three weeks. Here you can always find warm welcome, delicious food and drinks, a roof over your head with all the conveniences and a funny international company of mountain rogues from all over the world.
Thanks for sponsorship beer and food from Le Bonheur est dans le Pot, parking space and a comfortable bed in a shelter. Thanks for Courant ropes - we grazed them well. "VERY SPECIAL THANKS" for equipment from ClimbingTechnology, climbing to both tops would not be possible without them. Everything is very functional and easy, so wait for detailed reviews or buy directly from our store, vouch for the quality, we’ve tested ourselves.
It is our hope that we and our numerous friends will overcome all the obstacles and we’ll meet again in the Dolomites next time!
And our favorite heading "Records":
According to travel to different authorities: Polo - (not counted)
At beer and cigarettes: it is impossible to count
At a spectacular flight on a motoparaglider around Cimes: Mika
At the number of jumps without wingsuit: Mathias
At dragging cargo to a height of 500m +: French
At champion climbing on Cime Grande: Vova - 4 times
On Cime Piccola: Serge - 2 times
At jumping in Switzerland: Boris - 4, Serge - 4
At visa refusal: Lyocha - 2 times
At the number of rescued teams which charge object: Tre Cime - 6 pcs
Author Boris Maksimov
Editorial Alexey Bokoch
Translation of Yulia Derunets